urbanknight
User
Aspirant
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Re:Tactica: Paintwing. - 2006/03/29 08:52
I can take up the robes torch there,
PAINTING ROBES.
I generally hand prime all my robed marines in white, yes hand priming is a pain, but I prefer the smoothed finish of thinned primer rather then risk an uneven spray finish. I start the robes off with very thin bubonic brown, generally it takes about 3 full coats before its to the desired color level over white.. Generally as an FYI I use Vallejo Model color paint but I'm using GW terms to keep it easy.. thinned around 3:1 so its pretty thin. Then I begin with bleacked bone thinnned the same and avoiding the deepest recesses, then i mix up a mid-tone, generally 2:2 bleached bone, bubonic brown thinned down the same way as the rest of the paints... always thin your paint. That midtone you can either blend (which takes longer) or layer (Quicker but not as nice of a finish) into the lightly shadowed areas. This mix is also great for warm, natural shadows on the robes, so use this mix either lightened or darkened to do the shallow folds in the robes. Then mix up a uhm... well I guess you could call it a mid-highlight, I hate jarring transitions and blending is easier when there is a subtle color change already. so the mid-highlight would be skull white and bleached bone.. go easy on your skull white, its not the final highlight yet, so it should be barely lighter then your bleached bone. a good way to tell where to highlight is to take a goose-neck work lamp, and watch the way the light falls when the mini is directly under the light, accent those areas and either blend, or layer the first highlight. Then on the very brightest areas, highlight with pure skull white, and try to feather the edges of the highlight into the mid-highlight. Of course this is my personal anal retenative method of painting, and it takes a long time. (as in I have 3 figures out of a 5634 point force painted to a standard I consider done)
Best wishes
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